Climate Zones for Australian Gardeners
Knowing your climate zone will help you decide the best time to sow the vegetables, herbs and flowers you want to grow, and which varieties should perform well in your garden. Growing plants that are suited to your climate zone will usually give you the best results in your garden.
How to Use Climate Zones
First, find your climate zone using the map or descriptions below. Next, refer to our sowing chart, which provides approximate sowing times for our most popular seeds for each climate zone.
While knowing your climate zone is helpful when planning your garden, there are many other factors that may affect how your plants grow, including unseasonal weather conditions, the specific microclimate of your garden and how you care for your plants. You know your garden better than us, so if a different climate zone seems to ‘fit’ your garden better, go ahead and use it as a guide.
Our climate zones cover huge areas of Australia, so we recommend gardeners also consider their local conditions when planning what and when to plant. For example, gardeners in alpine areas have shorter growing seasons than gardeners in cool coastal areas, even though both alpine and coastal areas are included in our ‘Cool Temperate’ climate zone. We recommend gardeners in cool regions look at the ‘days to maturity’ information provided for each variety and choose those that will mature in a short (6-12 week) growing season.
Tropical
- Includes: Darwin, Cairns, Townsville, Exmouth
- High humidity summers with most rainfall in summer and dry, warm winters. Includes northern Australia from Exmouth (WA) across to south of Townsville (Qld).
- Set as my climate
Arid
- Includes: Alice Springs, Mildura, Albury-Wodonga, Shepparton, Wagga Wagga, Dubbo
- Hot dry summers, winters can be warm or cool depending on the region. Includes a large area of central Australia from the WA coast to Charleville (Qld), Tamworth (NSW) and Albury-Wodonga (NSW/Vic).
- Set as my climate
Subtropical
- Includes: Brisbane, Bundaberg, Coffs Harbour, Gold Coast, Hervey Bay, Mackay, Rockhampton, Sunshine Coast
- Warm humid summers with high summer rainfall and mild winters. Includes coastal Queensland and northern NSW from north of Mackay to just south of Coffs Harbour.
- Set as my climate
Temperate
- Includes: Sydney, Perth, Adelaide, Newcastle, Toowoomba, Central Coast NSW, Wollongong, Bunbury
- Moderate humidity and reliable rainfall, with four distinct seasons. Includes coastal areas from north of Port Macquarie to south of Woollongong in NSW, coastal SA and the southeastern coast of WA.
- Set as my climate
Cool Temperate
- Includes: Melbourne, Canberra, Hobart, Launceston, Ballarat, Bendigo, Geelong, Mt Gambier
- Low humidity with most rainfall in winter; hot dry summers and cold winters. Some regions will experience frosts and snow. Includes coastal areas of south-eastern Australia and alpine areas of Victoria, NSW and Tasmania.
- Set as my climate
Climate Zones FAQ
What if I can’t find my climate zone?
If you can’t locate your zone from looking at the map or the descriptions on this page, we suggest that you think of
an area that has a climate that’s similar to yours and use the zone for that area as a guide.
What if I live on the border of two zones?
If you live near the border between two zones we suggest you read the descriptions for both zones and decide which
best describes the climate where you live. Depending on the microclimate in your garden, you may be able to grow a
wider range of plants over a longer season than others in your zone. Lucky you!
What is a microclimate?
A microclimate is a small area where the temperature or humidity differs to the climate of the surrounding area. For
example, if you live in a climate zone where frosts are common but your garden is protected by buildings or large
trees, your garden may be frost-free. Similarly, if you live in a warm temperate zone but your garden is at a high
altitude your microclimate may have more in common with the cool temperate zone, so use this as a guide when
deciding which zone is relevant to you.
Can I grow varieties not listed for my climate zone?
While our climate zones and sowing chart will help you decide what is suitable to plant in your garden, they provide
general guidance only. We recommend you start by sowing seed that’s recommended for your climate zone; once you get
a few successes under your belt you can experiment with varieties in neighbouring zones and see how you go –
gardening is all about experimenting after all!
How to Grow Water Cress Seeds
Grow Guide #2479
Family: Brassicaceae
Binomial name: Nasturtium officinale
Life Cycle: Perennial
This 'How to Grow' guide details everything a home gardener needs to know to plant, grow and care for Water cress (Nasturtium officinale).
When to Sow Water cress Seeds
Water cress is a perennial plant that grows year round in most climates. Use the table below to identify the best time of year to sow water cress seeds in your climate.
| JAN | FEB | MAR | APR | MAY | JUN | JUL | AUG | SEP | OCT | NOV | DEC | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Cool | ||||||||||||
| Temperate | ||||||||||||
| Sub-Tropical | ||||||||||||
| Tropical | ||||||||||||
| Arid |
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Preparation
Water cress can be grown in fresh slow moving water such as a garden pond or stream, or in wet soil in the garden.
Water cress plants are perennial, meaning they live for several years. Choose a permanent position where plants can grow undisturbed by regular digging.
Water cress plants are best grown in full sun or part shade. Choose a location that will receive at least 3 hours of full sun each day.
If growing in water, ensure the water is free of livestock and other animal waste; water cress can become infested with liver fluke if grown downstream of sources of animal waste. Liver fluke is a parasite that can pass to people when consumed, causing liver and bile duct disease with infection lasting up to 30 years.
If growing in soil, water cress plants need a consistently moist soil enriched with plenty of organic matter. Prepare soil by weeding it thoroughly, digging it over to loosen it and adding aged animal manure or compost. Keep the area free of seeds until planting.
How to Grow Water Cress in Water
Water cress seeds do not require any treatment (eg soaking, stratification) before sowing.
Water cress seeds grow best when they are sprouted in water and transplanted into a pond or stream once they are established.
- Fill a shallow saucer or container with water.
- Sprinkle the seeds over the container.
- Place the container in a position in part sun.
- Refresh the water as needed; water cress requires clear, fresh water to grow well.
- Seeds should germinate in around 12-15 days.
- Transplant seedlings to a pond or stream once they have 4-6 true leaves and are large enough to handle.
Water cress plants may die back in cold weather. Cut plants back in late autumn, or prune off dead foliage when new leaves emerge in spring.
How to Grow Water Cress in the Garden
Water cress seeds do not require any treatment (eg soaking, stratification) before sowing.
Water cress seeds grow best when they are raised in trays or other containers and transplanted into the garden once they are established.
- Fill trays or punnets with a good quality seed-raising mix.
- Sow seeds 3mm deep.
- Submerge the container in water to half its depth.
- Place the container in a position in part sun.
- Seeds should germinate in around 12-15 days at a soil temperature of 8-15°C.
- Transplant seedlings to the garden once they have their first true leaves and are large enough to handle.
- Plant out, spacing plants 100cm apart.
Water cress plants can also be grown in containers. Use a good quality potting mix and make sure your container is large enough for mature plants; a minimum of 20 litres is recommended for water cress. Sit the container on a deep saucer so the bottom of the container is sitting in water. Change the water in the saucer if it becomes muddy.
Water cress plants need constant moisture during the growing season. Water regularly and do not let soil dry out.
If soil was well prepared no extra fertiliser should be necessary. In poor soil or to give your plants an extra boost, application of a balanced fertiliser or one formulated for fruit and vegetables can be beneficial:
- Apply slow release fertiliser at the recommended rate when transplanting or when seedlings are 5-10cm tall.
- Apply liquid fertiliser at the recommended rate and frequency while plants are fruiting or flowering.
Water cress plants may die back in cold weather. Cut plants back just above ground level in late autumn, or prune off dead foliage when new leaves emerge in spring.
How to Harvest Water cress
Water cress should be ready to harvest in approximately 50-60 days.
Water cress is ready to harvest when the stems have grown long enough to pick, and can be harvested as needed. Harvest by pinching off the outer stems and leaves, leaving some on the plant for future growth. Water Cress can be stored short term in a perforated plastic bag in the fridge, or the stems can be placed in a glass or jar of water to keep them hydrated. For longer term storage, water cress can be frozen and then added to pestos and soups.
Common Problems when Growing Water cress
Like all plants, water cress is susceptible to some pests, diseases and other problems. Below is a list of the most common problems gardeners encounter when growing water cress plants:
Aphids are small (2-4mm long) sap-sucking insects that congregate on the new shoots or the undersides of leaves. They can cause leaves to wilt or become discoloured, and also excrete honeydew which can attract ants and other insect pests. To manage aphids, remove them by spraying with a garden hose, apply a soap or alcohol spray, or encourage predatory insects to your garden. Read more about aphids here.
Spider mites (Tetranychus urticae), also known as two spotted mites, are sap-sucking arachnids that cause dry, wilted or discoloured leaves. The undersides of leaves may feel dry and a little like fine sandpaper. Prune plants to allow good air flow or spray with eco-oil or wettable sulphur. Learn more about managing spider mites here.
Whitefly is a sap-sucking insect related to aphids. They are often found in large numbers on the underside of leaves and will swarm in clouds when disturbed. Plants may have yellowing leaves or may wilt, and growth will be slowed. Whitefly can be removed with a garden hose or sprayed with soap spray. Badly affected plants should be destroyed. Attracting beneficial insects that will prey on whitefly can be beneficial. Read more about managing whitefly here.
